In the heart of Cap Bon, in eastern Tunisia, where fertile hills embrace the gentle breezes of the Mediterranean, the red pepper fields of late summer transform into vibrant canvases. Their intoxicating aroma fills the air, creating a scene that touches both the eye and the soul.
It is here that the journey of Tunisian Harissa begins—a culinary treasure that has transcended local kitchens to become a proud emblem of Tunisian heritage. Once a household staple, harissa has now found its way onto dining tables across North Africa and even beyond, celebrated for its distinctive flavor and cultural richness.
At the center of this tradition are women—the faithful guardians of an age-old craft. With meticulous care, they harvest each pepper, ushering in the most captivating moment: endless rows of fiery red chilies spread across rooftops and fields, left to dry beneath the blazing sun. Nature itself intensifies their color and deepens their flavor, weaving a living memory passed down through generations.
After drying, the peppers are taken to the kousha—traditional ovens that lend them a steady heat, enhancing their crimson hue and amplifying their unique taste. Then comes the final stage: the peppers are ground and blended with olive oil, garlic, and spices, giving life to harissa—a fiery red paste that infuses Tunisian cuisine with both magic and heat. More than just a condiment, harissa is a symbol of identity and a pillar of the nation’s culinary heritage.
Dried peppers take on different forms: felfel cheqf (cut into large pieces for flavor), felfel mrhi (ground into chili powder), and the famous harissa arbi—where sun-dried peppers are crushed with garlic, salt, and olive oil, then preserved in clay jars known as kanoun. Each form tells its own story, but together they speak of a cultural legacy rooted in everyday life.
Harissa is not merely food—it is memory. It recalls childhood scenes of women spreading peppers across courtyards or working patiently with the traditional mortar. Despite the rise of modern food industries, artisanal harissa continues to shine, narrating the story of Tunisian women who turned red peppers into culinary gold, adorning tables around the world with flavor and fire.
Today, Tunisia has embraced this ancestral skill as both heritage and livelihood. Homemade, sun-dried peppers—felfel diyari—are prepared for local markets and export, providing women with an income and empowering families through tradition.
Harissa, therefore, is not only the taste of Tunisia—it is its spirit, resilience, and a timeless bridge between the land, its people, and the world.
TunisianMonitorOnline (Douha Essaafi)
